Right-Hand vs Left-Hand vs Broken Twill
Which way the diagonal runs, and what it does to hand, fade and leg twist.
Short answer
Right-hand twill is the default and fades with defined contrast. Left-hand is softer after washing. Broken twill was invented to stop legs twisting, and has no dominant diagonal.
Side by side
| Right-hand (Z) | Left-hand (S) | Broken twill | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Diagonal | Bottom-left to top-right | Bottom-right to top-left | Reverses every few warp ends -- no dominant line |
| Hand after wash | Firmer | Softer, fuller | Between the two |
| Fade | Defined, contrasty | Softer, hazier | Even, low-contrast |
| Leg twist | Possible | Possible, mirrored | Eliminated -- the reason it exists |
| Association | The industry default | A specific heritage lineage | Workwear heritage |
Choose Right-hand (Z) when…
Most programmes. It is the default for a reason and the fades are what customers expect from denim.
Choose Left-hand (S) when…
Where a softer, fuller hand after washing is the point, and the hazier fade suits the wash programme.
Choose Broken twill when…
Where leg twist has been a complaint, or the workwear reference is deliberate.
See Both in Stock
Each of these reads live from our warehouse sheets.
Still Deciding?
Tell us what you are making and we will tell you which of the two suits it, and what we have in both.